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DENTDALE
In the
Yorkshire Dales National Park
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Poems by David Morphet
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Inspired by Dentdale |
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Moorland
The moor has a
dialect
abrupt and guttural,
harsh and impoverished.
It is the
sharp tongue of the wind
berating the bracken;
and the yatter of rain.
It is the
hawk's cry,
and the hare's scream,
and the low cough of grouse.
Swarthy the
moor's complexion;
its skin of peat
pocked with reed colonies,
and heather
primed
for autumn's explosion
into purple erysipelas.
It partners
the sky.
The two of them cohabit,
blend and intersect.
The morning mist
brings a confinement
of all horizons;
while the
wester sun
burns its image
on the moorland pools.
This unhedged
margin
is our borderland
and needful wilderness.
May its rough
thirst
never be slaked by fertile lime,
or by the dew of pasture. |
Dentdale
Each summer to
the open field we went
in the deep dale, and pitched our tent
under fells which funnel the road to Dent.
Dent, with the
stream that ducks and weaves
under and over its limestone bed;
a water that beckons and deceives.
Dent, with its
diagram of hillside farms
held in a net from crest to foot,
impervious to every Pennine storm.
Dent, where
the drovers passed with goad and plaid
from Annandale, driving their beasts to sell
in the high market up at Ribblehead,
where over the
moors the bold stone viaducts
carry the line the navvies built
from Settle to Carlisle, with hundreds dead.
And in our
white pavilion all night long
we'd hear ewes calling for their taken lambs
and the bleat of lambs replying from the fold.
MOORLAND and
DENTDALE
Taken from
"Seventy-Seven Poems" by David Morphet
(2002: Notion Books ISBN 0 9541573 1 1)
and were inspired by camping holidays
on a farm at Lea Yeat in the 1970's.
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Ley Lines
Dent Town and
Horton, Ingleton,
triangulate the high dales
where roots run deep.
The Dee, the
Doe, the Ribble,
and their becks and viaducts
draw lines on the mind’s map.
Lea Yeat and
Gearstones,
Whernside, Hewthwaite, Rash,
mark out old memories.
At
Chapel-le-Dale, St Leonard’s,
squat and robust,
like the first churches of the North,
is holding
ground
for Christ and in its element –
stone-hewn, an omphalos.
The Cam Beck
tumbles down
past flags of Nether Lodge
into the swirl of Ribble.
The Dee ducks
in and out
of thirsty strata, longing
for the Rawthey and the Lune.
This is the
country of resilience,
big in its moorland boots,
and on its own two feet.
December 2002
Taken from
"Seventy-Seven Poems" by David Morphet
(2002: Notion Books ISBN 0 9541573 1 1)
and were inspired by camping holidays
on a farm at Lea Yeat in the 1970's. |
Above Dent
High in this circle of
familiar hills,
mind fuses with their stretch and rising,
moulds to their wrap and folding,
and the sweep of scar and ghyll;
and down where Helm’s Knott
swells,
stubbled with heather, latches on
to the great Fault splitting Lakes from Dales,
where Pennine butts up against lakeland fell.
All unity, the valley’s scoop
appears
from this vantage-point, but underground
the strata are at odds: one step and you’re out
by a hundred million years.
Swift becks lay bare the
skeleton;
disclose the fractures and the shattered bones
of breccia and conglomerate -
the twist and grind and cold convulsion.
But in the dale, a daub of
green and brown
covers the sync- and anti-cline.
Its soft contours hide the rend and fission
which aeons of wind and rain have whittled down.
Now all is calm. The fossil
shells
and coral colonies lie silent
under upland farms. The limestone
beds down quietly with shale.
Sedge glows in the setting
winter sun
like fox’s fur: long capes of shadow fall
from drystone walls: ice underfoot
warns that the short bright day will soon be done.
January 2003
Taken from
"The Angel and the Fox" by David Morphet
(2003 Notion Books, ISBN 0 9541573 2) |
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INTRUSION
High up the valley
roll, improbably,
suburban shuttles –
humdrum carriages
puttering smugly
past the sombre scars
of Whernside, Knoutberry.
Rails have the moorland’s
measure, lay down laws
of tilt and gradient,
slice through shaw and fell,
pierce pike and crag,
ford valley heads
with stone pontoons.
Roads are kinder -
contoured - tolerate
trespass, encroachment.
Should the day come,
the moor won’t hesitate
to take them back, embrace
with reed and sphagnum.
But rail has blazed
a deeper brand; pile
and dynamite have
sealed and cauterised.
Its track, even if green
replaces steel, will
last like Pyramids.
Inspired
by the Settle-Carlisle Line. |
SWALLOW-HOLES
Our maps
define the limestone dale we’re in,
and also show us what’s beneath the skin
of field and fell. Among the contour lines
are pockmark swallow-holes, like ancient mines.
These are the
avens plunging to deep veins
in the rock’s fracture; splintered souterrains
spreading across an obscure hinterland.
Unseen, dark rivers flow there; lakes expand.
A world apart,
the bowelled aquifers;
the dripping caverns with their long fingers
of lime; the buried waters trickling by
without disturbance; no observing eye
to detect them
in their slow processes -
contaminate - pierce their unconsciousness.
Deep below ground, the hidden measures serve
to hold, accumulate, keep in reserve.
And yet the
upper landscape answers
to their capacities; the river dries or dances
according to their appetite; it swells
when they are swollen; and when they thirst, it fails.
Explorers I
salute; those who descend
and penetrate, and push on to the end,
exhausted, always hoping that beyond a
last dark channel they will find a wonder.
The wonder,
though, remains in what’s unseen;
the narrow capillaries; the whole machine
with its elaborate vessels, filters
of mineral, rich with minute particulars.
The wonder
lies in courses of a deep
and hidden purity, the constant seep
of waters, and in due time their issuing
into a flight of streams, a sudden spring.
Taken
from
"The Angel and the Fox" by David Morphet
(2003 Notion Books, ISBN 0 9541573 2 )
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Pen-y-Ghent
Up the
gritstone steps of Pen-y-Ghent,
moorland impounded in a maze of walls.
On the horizon stand the other
high places of the Pennine trinity –
uncrowned Whernside; Ingleborough helm -
and down below, a great quarry-scar –
a five-tiered Epidaurus, limestone-grey –
gouged out of Horton hill.
This is my
territory. This is where
landscape speaks in an accent that I know
in every clough and thwaite and settlement;
in the high rakes and dry scars of the moor;
in the beck that trickles out of Browgill Cave;
in the dark shafts of the swallow-holes;
in the rough pastures of the valley sides;
in the cold rain siling down on Pen-y-Ghent.
How Dent Kept Its Head
This is a
valley which has kept its head -
no special Act of Parliament required;
no monkey business with the fingerposts
or jiggery-pokery with ‘road-up’ signs.
But two stone
bridges which a churn could block,
forcing the skewed road through their narrow die.
That’s how the Davids of the dale cut off
Goliath’s head, and ditch the juggernauts.
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A
Dreamsong for Dent
It could have
been a Pennine mini-state;
a moorland Venice with its oligarchs.
Were there not statesmen in the dale?
There would be
problems –
currency, for instance, would be sheep
and always being clipped.
There would be
vendettas, too,
touching fence and fodder,
but no stiletto in the byre.
Frontiers -
never an issue.
North and south and east,
the hills would keep armies out.
All exports
would go west;
Dent stockings into the sunset,
with marble argosies.
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Two poems from “39
Ways of Looking” (Notion Books, 2005, ISBN 09541573 4 6)
xxxviii.
Silence at Briggflatts
Turn down the unassuming country lane
to where a roof of Pennine stone
is facing off the wind and rain.
This is the quiet house, the place
where silent Quakers come to meet.
Step out of dank and drizzle. Lift the latch
on four-square stillness.
Faint and grey, the morning light
slides round sill and mullion
as if its purpose was retreat.
Under the shadow of the fell
where Fox stood up and planted deep
the word of God in local hearts,
this place was built to garner in
stores of spiritual wheat.
A place to guard the inward light
and power of communion
which needs no liturgy or bell.
For these insiders, means of grace
ripened in the soul’s own heat. |
xxxix.
Pen-y-Ghent
So to the nab of Pen-y-Ghent
where moor’s impounded in a maze of walls
and landscape speaks in accents that I know -
a tongue of scars and rakes and becks
straight from the Norse. A land of spur and knoll,
rough pasture on the valley side,
a cold wind scouring over scarp
from Ribblehead. Here is my own;
my latitude and dialect,
my discourse and parole.
From this bleak Sinai the moors roll out
austere and puritan and fall
in tussock, stone and reed
sodden to the valley floors
down gill and swallow-hole.
If there’s illusion here,
it’s deeply rooted in the bone
and ineradicable.
This is native heath and home,
meridian and pole. |
A
poem from David's fifth collection,
'The Silence of Green'
ISBN is 09541573 5 4.MOOR
SONG
Here is my element.
The lift and swell
and lip and lie.
The stretch of sky
over the hills.
The way moor folds;
the way it breaks
into a run of ghylls;
the way it falls;
the way the wide fells
hold the eye and all
is clear and still.
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Historical Note:
David Morphet's forebears lived
in Dent some two
hundred years
ago and his wife Sarah, is a
Sedgwick.
More information from:
www.notionbooks.co.uk |
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After
the Wars
‘After the
wars’, fore-elders heard and said,
four brothers came together all the way
down from Scotland, wearing the plaid.
Nothing,
though, about which wars, or why.
The micro-legend harks three hundred years
back to the killing times in Galloway,
but that’s
a far cry from Dent or Ribblesdale
where farmers milking their lives away
forgot, or lost all interest in the tale.
The
mini-anecdote tells nothing of hunters
combing the heather, sent by Claverhouse
to mop up covenanters.
Nothing
about conventicles
on the high moors, or martyrdoms.
Nothing about religion, nothing political.
Just the
four brothers wearing the plaid
heading for England, seeking a safer billet
in quieter byres, and no doubt better paid.
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After the
Wars refers to an old
Morphet family tale that 'four
brothers came down from Scotland
after the wars, wearing the kilt'.
The wars in question were the
covenanting wars in Scotland at the
end of the seventeenth century, and
I believe that quite a number of
immigrants reached the Dales from
Scotland at about that time. Many
of them must have known the Dales
quite well from the droving that
brought them periodically through
Dentdale up to the cattle market
at Ribblehead - and of course
via other routes. D.M. |
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